Did you catch Doug’s interview in March with Jayson Sacco on his podcast Outdoor Adventures with Jayson? Be sure to check it out. They discuss food plotting from beginning to end from the perspective of someone new to the process.
Jayson’s podcast episodes cover topics ranging from North American white tail and bear hunting to African safari’s. Learn more about Jayson and subscribe to his podcast on his website.
Have you ever asked Doug for advice on what to plant in your plots? I’d bet money I know what the first thing he’d ask you is.
“Did you do a soil test? What’s your PH?”
Not sure? Not sure how to find out? Don’t worry, we got you.
Soil tests are so important to the success of your plots. They spell out for you exactly what you need to get the groceries you’re looking for. Even the freshest of seeds won’t grow to it’s full potential if soil conditions aren’t juuuuust right. Instead of guessing what your soil might need, wouldn’t you feel better if you knew EXACTLY what it needed? That’s where soil tests come in. Here we’ll explain everything you need to know and do to collect a soil sample and send it in for analysis.
What you’ll need:
Soil test kit (which you can get more info about here)
Soil probe/section of pipe/shovel
You’ll only need to take the bucket and the soil probe/shovel when you head out to your food plot site. We suggest you take a minimum of five samples from each food plot site: one from each corner and one from the center. You will put all five of these samples into the same bucket, mix them together, and then take some of that soil to submit for your sample for that plot location. Do NOT mix samples from multiple plot sites, though.
You’ll want to go about 4-6 inches into the soil to collect your samples. If you’re using a soil probe, it will likely have marks on the back side that you can use for reference.
First, clear away debris from the area you’d like to collect a sample from. Then, push your soil test probe into the soil, give it a twist, and pull it back up. Finally, knock that soil out into your bucket using a stick, and move onto the next spot. Once you’ve done this five times for that plot site, you have your full soil sample for that location.
Don’t have a soil test probe? No worries, you can accomplish the same thing with a shovel. Ideally, we suggest doing this with something like a garden trowel, but you can make it work without. Basically, you just shovel out a small hole, then scrape the edge of the hole with the shovel. Then place a length of that sample into your bucket. Repeat four more times.
Once you have all your individual samples from one food plot in your bucket, go ahead and stir it all up. You will then take a portion of this entire sample and submit it for testing.
Essentially, what you’re submitting is an average for the entire plot site. Remember that this is just for one location; be sure to not combine individual samples from multiple sites. This could drastically skew your results.
How to Submit the Soil Sample
Ok, so now you’re ready to send in your soil sample. Remember that test kit? When you open that up, you’ll find two sheets of paper, a bag to put the soil in, and an envelope to put the sample bag and paperwork in for mailing.
Now you’re going to need to fill some paperwork out. You’ll notice that some of the fields on the soil sample bag and the information sheet match up. For example:
It’s pretty self explanatory. An account number will be listed on the form; write that number on the first line of the soil sample bag. Include your name. Be sure to come up with a name for the plot location (Bob’s plot, or Plot A, or whatever you want to call it). You’re sample ID will be 1 unless you had a 5+ acre plot that you divided into smaller sections.
You’ll also notice on the information sheet there’s a section to check off what you intend to plant in that plot next. If you know, great! Mark it off and you will get specific recommendations for that seed blend in your results. If you’re not sure, just check Big Racks.
For the sections “Previous Crop,” “Soil Type,” and “Tillage & Depth,” if you don’t know, it’s ok to leave them blank.
That’s it! Include your $18 cash or check in the envelope with the information sheet and soil sample bag, and drop it in the mail! You can expect your results soon!
So to recap…
Get a soil test kit
Grab a bucket and a soil probe, pipe, or shovel
Collect appx. 5 samples from a food plot site, going 4-6 inches into the soil
Combine those 5 samples in the bucket
Fill out the paperwork in the test kit
Put your soil sample into the sample bag
Put the sample bag, information sheet, and $18 into the mailing envelope
Repeat this process for each of your food plot locations
We’ll explain how to read your results in an upcoming post. In the meantime, if you still have questions, leave us a comment on this post!
Got more specific questions? Join us April 26 at Stadium View in Green Bay for a night of food, drinks, prizes, and food plot knowledge. Reserve your spot here.
Hey, thanks for sticking around to the end! Use code HB10OFF for 10% off your next order. Happy shopping!
When it comes to food plots, we get a lot of questions about what to do, when. And we get it! It gets confusing. There’s spring plots and there’s summer plots; there’s small kill plots and there’s big food plots. All of these need to be handled differently. And then there’s soil tests, weed control, fertilizer, what KIND of fertilizer… oof!
It’s ok. We’ll walk you through a basic timeline, and then over the next few months we’ll dive deeper into some of these specific steps. Refer back to this as the year goes on to stay on track with your plotting plans. *Note* We do realize this may vary based on where you’re located. If you have specific questions, don’t be afraid to reach out.
Mineral/Supplemental Feeding – If you’re somewhere where you can put out mineral or other supplemental feed, we highly recommend that you do. This can help alleviate stress on the deer during times of low food sources. (Be sure to check your local game laws.)
Pick new potential Food Plot/Kill Plot sites – take advantage of the snow for finding trails and bedding areas. Use that information to pick new plot sites (if you need them); keep in mind access to these locations and prevailing winds during hunting season. Note: when we say food plot, we’re talking a minimum of 2 acres; kill plots, under 1 acre.
Soil testing– As soon as you can. Please, please do not skip soil testing! The results from your soil test are your guide to food plot success. By skipping soil testing and fertilizing according to the test’s results, you will be losing out on your food plot’s potential.
Frost seeding – Wait until the snow is gone and some of the frost has come out of the ground. Seeding too early means it will sit on top of the snow or frozen ground, which means risking that most of it could become bird food. We recommend frost seeding clover such as our Luck O Blend; most of our other blends should be planted later.
Soil testing – If you haven’t done it yet, May is still a good time. You can still get your results with enough time to prepare for what you may need to add to your soil.
Weed control – Just because your plot looked brown and dead in April doesn’t mean the weeds aren’t there. Your seed doesn’t stand a chance if it’s going to be competing with weeds, so make sure you’re eliminating those as much as you can.
Ag-lime – If you plan to use ag-lime, now is a good time to start applying it. Apply it too soon, and it may wash away with rain. Apply it too late, and it won’t have time to start working and impact your seed growth. A great alternative? Liquid Lime.
Continue with weed control, as needed
Apply ag-lime, as needed
Mow any clover plots – if you frost seeded clover in early spring, you’re going to want to mow that when it blossoms.
Fertilize– You want to try to fertilize as close to planting as you can so the fertilizer can be used by the seed, not washed away.
Plant!– Ideal timing is 60-80 days before a killing frost. Planting too early means your plots will likely be there and gone before hunting season even opens. Be patient! We promise it’s worth the wait.
Of course, fertilizing and planting are not just two simple last steps and then you’re done. There’s disking, rolling, and making sure you’re not over/under seeding too. Equipment varies, as does the blend you’re planting; we’ll get into those details in another post.
Simple enough, right? Just remember, once you have a location established, the key steps are these: soil test, weed control, fertilize, plant. Oh, we almost forgot…
Fall – Shoot a Big Buck!
Got more specific food plotting questions for Doug? See the full schedule of upcoming seminars here. Or simply comment on this post!
If you missed the Wisconsin State Hunting Expo in Green Bay, don’t worry! There’s plenty of opportunities coming up to visit with the HB Seed Team or hear Doug speak on the topic of food plots. Here is the current expo and seminar schedule; we will post additional details and updates as we get them.
If you’re new to HB Seed Co. or food plotting, thanks for
checking us out! And to all our customers, thanks for your continued support! Your
success is our success, and we’re looking forward to helping you make the most
of the upcoming season.
Whether you’ve been using HB Seed Co. products for a while
or you’re visiting us for the first time, you may be wondering how a company
like this came to be. The story has been told many times, in person and on
podcasts, but we’ve never really explained our story here. So, if you sit back
and relax, we’ll take you on a brief walk down memory lane.
Meet Doug Kostreva
Doug grew up on a family farm that was established in 1917
in northeast Wisconsin – in fact, he still lives there. He’s a third-generation
farmer and still raises beef cattle today. Using the knowledge from his farming
background, he started planting food plots in the 80s, mostly for people who
were interested in attracting deer so they could watch them in their yards.
Through the years it was something Doug did on the side – that is, until life
decided to throw the Kostreva’s a curve ball. Both Doug and his wife were laid
off, and after some deliberation,
he decided it was time to take his part-time gig and turn it into a business.
“But what do we name it?”
Can we just mention really quickly: we do know they’re called antlers.
But have you ever been driving around, spotted a big buck in
a field, hit the brakes and said, “Look at the horns on that guy!”?? It can’t be just us. Even Doug’s wife says
it, so you know it’s legit. In fact, she says it so much that when it came time
to name this new business she said, “Why not Horny Buck Seed?” You know, after
their horns. What were you thinking?
You have to admit, it’s pretty clever. And so, this play on words led to the Horny Buck Seed Company (now shortened to HB Seed Co.) being born in 2012. Doug contacted his brother, a graphic designer, and after a few designs, Horny the Buck became the official mascot and logo.
HB Seed Co Today
So, what is HB Seed Co about? For starters, as our homepage will tell you, we’re all about the freshest seed! But not only are the seed blends fresh, they include variety. Just as you wouldn’t want to eat the same thing for every meal, deer also like to mix things up — and HB Seed Co delivers with the deer groceries. The blends are all designed to be high in nutrients to help maintain a healthy herd for bucks, does, and fawns alike.
Beyond the products, though, HB Seed Co. is all about helping customers succeed. We want to provide you with the know-how to plant and grow healthy plots that keep the deer coming back for more. When customers connect on the deer of a lifetime – whether it’s their first, biggest, or somewhere in between – thanks to their HB Seed food plots, that is the ultimate reward.
You don’t need to be a third-generation farmer like Doug to plant healthy food plots. Our goal is to provide you with the information and support you need to attract deer, maintain a healthy deer herd, and see that sweat-equity pay off! We love helping people, so we hope to provide more content in the future to assist you in as many ways as we can – and we hope to keep having fun doing it!
Check back frequently for more tips and updates. If you missed us at the Wisconsin State Hunting Expo in Green Bay, don’t worry! There will be plenty of chances to meet and learn from the HB Seed team in person coming up. More details soon! In the meantime, be sure to keep up with us on Facebook.
Most people are not thinking about food plotting in mid-February. But us whitetail-crazed nuts are a little bit different. We are always thinking about what could possibly give us an edge on that buck we are after. If you follow this page, you have probably already seen the advantages food plotting can give you, or you are interested starting your very first food plot to help give you success in the whitetail woods.
Today we are going to talk about one of the best ways to start your first food plot. The great part about this method is it requires minimal tools, and mother nature does the majority of the work for us. So what is this strategy? Frost seeding, frost seeding clover to be exact.
There are many advantages of putting clover in early spring. This can be a very stressful part of the year for a whitetail, especially in early spring when there are still heavy frosts. Providing clover for these deer is a great way to add extra protein to their diet during a female’s gestation period, and a male’s primary antler growing season.
So how do we go about frost seeding? The process is very simple actually, and that is what makes this such an effective strategy for feeding our deer. The first step is timing. Timing is everything when it comes to frost seeding. We need to focus on a time period when we have freezing temperatures at night, and temperatures that are high enough for the ground to thaw during the day. Here in the Midwest this is usually during March that we see these conditions. The reason we need these freezing and thawing conditions, is because it creates an expanding and contracting surface area with every freeze and thaw. This literally sucks the clover seeds into the dirt, and provides perfect conditions for germination.
The fact that the freezing and thawing is getting our seeds into the ground is what makes frost seeding so advantageous. We don’t need a drill or a cultipacker, mother nature takes care of that for us. The next thing we need to look for is a proper place to seed. Really what we need here is an area that is exposed to sunlight, and where we can get good seed to soil contact. Another great advantage to frost seeding is this time of year, we can most likely get great seed to soil contact without any sort of disking or tilling. The grass isn’t growing yet, and we can usually get our seed into the dirt without having to disturb the soil too much.
Now all that’s left is broadcasting the seed. When it comes time to seed, we usually want to apply about 4 pounds per half acre, with frost seeding we want to go a little heavier. Just because of the process it takes, we want to be looking at about 5 pounds per half acre. Horny Buck Seed’s Luck o’ Blend is a great option for frost seeding. This is a great mixture of 5 different clovers, including white and red varieties. It also has rye grass, and birds foot trefoil, two other great seeds for frost seeding.
Birds Foot Trefoil
After we broadcast our seed, all that is left to do is let mother nature work. Our seed will get absorbed into the earth, and germination will start rather quickly. Providing great nutrition for our deer during the spring and summer, and also giving us a great hunting spot come fall. Clover is also a great food source for turkeys, providing us with another hunting opportunity in the spring.
We hope you enjoyed this article, and consider taking advantage of this great food plotting method. Frost seedingis a great way to get food plots in with minimal equipment and time.